Riding the tram may seem a daunting task at first, but fear not; it’s much less strenuous than it appears. Upon arrival to Sarajevo, one of the first things I saw when I entered the city were the small, ramshackle trams swaying between the lanes of traffic on rusted tracks. Looking into the windows from the sidewalk for the first time, I discovered that at almost any given time, I’m unable to see through to the other side, my perspective constantly blocked by the masses of people packed into the small cars.

When the tram arrives at the stop, an overwhelming wave of people rush out of the doors, and unfortunately for me as an impatient person, you must wait for them to exit, before hurrying up the metal steps into the car. When I had a temporary ticket, I had to squeeze through the crowd, stumbling into people until I finally found the small green box located in the back or front cars of the tram. After inserting the ticket, the machine would spit the white card back at me, and I would quickly have to find something to grab onto unless I wanted to topple onto strangers for the remainder of my journey. As a clumsy person, I can attest to the fact that riding the tram can be an embarrassing experience.

 

While living in this country, I’ve discovered that the most important thing to know about Bosnian people is their intense love of coffee. Coffee culture is very prominent here, and it’s more unique than your average Starbucks latte. Though I’ve noticed plenty of people enjoying a cappuccino or an espresso, the most important kind is the traditional Bosnian coffee (not to be confused with Turkish coffee). The unfiltered beverage is served in a small copper pot–called a džezva–and there is a specific ritual you must follow. First, scoop the foam off the top and into the small accompanying cup. Only then can you pour the coffee very slowly and carefully into the cup. Once finished pouring the drink, dip the corner of a sugar cube into the coffee, bite it off, and take a sip of the bitter liquid. The beautiful, traditional coffee sets can be found all over Sarajevo, typically consisting of one plate, one džezva, one dish for sugar cubes and two small cups.

 

One of the key elements that defines a country is its cuisine. Bosnia has a wide variety of rich, delicious food full of carbs–thanks to its Austrian, Turkish, and other Mediterranean influences. The most common ingredients are potatoes, onions, bread, peppers and primarily, meat. The main Bosnian dishes typically contain beef or lamb; an example of this being the famous ćevapi, which you are practically obligated to try when visiting Bosnia & Herzegovina, or as said to me by a local “it will be like you never came.” Ćevapi is a pita bread stuffed with several sausages, typically accompanied by sour cream and onions on the metal plate, and is essentially the definition of Bosnian food. Another classic dish, which can be found in every pekara (or bakery), is burek, a pastry full of meat, wrapped into a spiral, and baked. This is a favourite among my classmates and I. There are pottages, or thick soups, and they are a must try for any visitor to the country.

There are many other foods like these, but of course, it’s also essential to know about dessert. Desserts are extremely sweet in Bosnia, mostly to balance the bitter coffee that comes after every meal. The most famous dessert is baklava, a pastry containing nuts, drowning in syrup or honey. Another favourite is tufahija, a baked apple filled with nuts inundated in syrup, like baklava, both of which were introduced during the Ottoman Empire.

 

One of the most beautiful sounds I’ve ever heard in my life is the call to prayer. The soothing sound of themuezzin’s voice, summoning the people to their mandatory worship is something I will miss about this country. The Muslim prayer, salah is observed five times throughout the day, with the first one starting around 5 AM. People can be seen outside Bey’s Mosque in the Old Town of Sarajevo, performing the religious ritual by standing, bowing and kneeling, leaving their shoes off the gorgeous patterned rugs.

 

I watched this ritual, intrigued by the foreign concept of such a dedicated worship schedule. It is amazing to me how important prayer is, and I wish there was a similar religious presence back home in Canada. Religion is something that has been lost in time, it is becoming less and less important, and is seen as somewhat of a taboo topic – something you can’t discuss with someone for fear of offending them. I love the customs of each of the religions around me everyday. I love the gorgeous mosques spread around the city, the huge Catholic cathedral, and the breathtaking Orthodox church.

Something I have been asked time and time again, by friends, family members, and locals, is “Why Bosnia?”. The truth is, I don’t know. I’m here because of an executive decision made by the authority figures at my school more than a year ago.

 

“Would I have chosen to come here on my own? Probably not. Am I happy to be here? Definitely.”

 

The cultural immersion I have experienced in this country that is so different from my own is something that I will cherish for the rest of my life. I’ve learned about traditions, religion, war and peace. It amazes me when I walk down the streets, passing by buildings riddled with bullet holes from years ago how people can achieve peace in such a short time. There is none of the ethnic tension or division that I was originally expecting, and though they may have at one point, people’s religions do not define them. The people have been very kind and open towards our group of teenagers invading their city – waiters in restaurants often question us, asking where we’re from, why we’re here and offering their help if we ever need it.

I know there are misconceptions about Bosnia & Herzegovina, but after living here for almost two months, I have gotten to know the city, the people and some of the customs. Though there may have been a war just 21 years ago, they have come a long way since then and Bosnia is not what it once was. The truth about Bosnia & Herzegovina is that it is a country full of history, nature, people, traditions and rich cultural diversity, and an appreciation for their old customs, which is something that I will definitely miss.